Peas, with the scientific name Pisum sativum, are an excellent legume, with great nutritional properties and a great source of protein, which is why they are a food particularly appreciated by vegetarians and vegans as a substitute for animal proteins and also by those who, for various reasons, they want to eat less of that protein. As with all legumes, there is nothing better than growing your own plants to enjoy a much healthier and tastier organic farming. This type of vegetable is native to the East, where it spread mainly in Europe and Asia, from there to different parts of the world. It is important to remember that this plant is not very demanding, therefore it does not need a lot of care for its growth, and it can also be produced throughout the year as long as the right conditions for proper development are provided. An alternative is hydroponics, which is a growing technique that allows you to cover all your needs. Also not to be forgotten is the well-known flower of the pea plant, which is decorative, fragrant and highly prized in gardening, although these flowering pea varieties are not edible.
If you want to learn how to grow peas, join us in this article where you will find a complete and easy guide to being able to grow them efficiently and productively.
Index
- When to plant peas
- Climatic requirements
- Substrate information
- Irrigation
- Fertilization
- How to plant peas in pots or in the ground in soil
- How to grow peas in hydroponics
- How long does it take for a pea plant to grow?
- Variety of peas
- Diseases and parasites
- How to store peas
Let's start with some basic information on growing this plant.
1. When to plant peas
The best time to plant pea seeds is, with most varieties and climates, in the fall, after the hottest temperatures of summer and with distant winter frosts.
However, some varieties of peas allow for very early planting and in very cold climates it is advisable to sow earlier so that frosts do not come with too vulnerable seedlings. In these cases it is possible to plant peas in the summer, especially at the end of it. In addition, peas of wrinkled varieties also accept spring planting quite well.
2. Climatic Requirements
It is a temperate and somewhat humid climate crop. The plant freezes in temperatures below -3 or -4ºC. It stops growing when temperatures start to drop below 5 or 7ºC. Vegetative development has its optimal growth with temperatures between 16 and 20ºC, the minimum is between 6 and 10ºC and the maximum above 35ºC. If the temperature is very high, the plant grows quite poorly. It needs ventilation and light to grow well.
3. Substrate information
The pea does well on soils suitable for the bean; that is, in the light ones with siliceous-silty paste. In calcareous soils it can show symptoms of chlorosis and the seeds are generally hard.
It thrives badly in too humid soils and in excessively clayey ones; appreciates soil moisture, but not excessively, where seed rot is common, causing long shoots, especially if it is a wrinkled variety of wheat. The pH that works best is between 6 and 6.5. As for salinity, the pea is a plant considered intermediate in terms of resistance to it. To control and adjust the pH, you will find a wide selection of products in the catalog, from meters to pH regulators.
4. Irrigation
This crop in optimal soil moisture conditions requires little irrigation. It does not need a lot of humidity and the risks must be moderate. When irrigating by gravity, before sowing, it is necessary to give an irrigation so that the soil has enough moisture when it receives the seed. Then, if the harvest is autumn-winter, a couple of waterings are probably sufficient, if it is winter-spring 3 or 4 waterings will be necessary. As important moments, in terms of the need for humidity, we must consider the flowering and when the pods are half-thick.
In gravity irrigation, about two grams per square meter of nitrogen can be applied after each irrigation, not exceeding a total of 10 grams of N. We suggest the nitrogen of Bionova N Super 27% which will provide your plant with everything necessary for a healthy development.
5. Fertilization
Being a filling crop and not very demanding on organic matter, it is not convenient to fertilize it. It is also undemanding in mineral fertilizers. Before sowing it is recommended to add about 25 grams per square meter of 8-15-15 complex fertilizer.
In the greenhouse it is generally not necessary to fertilize, since it is a secondary crop that is not very demanding in organic matter. Likewise, the requirements in the mineral elements are relatively low.
Bottom fertilization can be done at a rate of 25 g / m2 of 5-16-13 NPK. A product that is right for you is Aptus All In One in slow release pellets.
In fertigation, in sandy soil and autumn-winter cultivation, the following scheme can be carried out:
- Carry out a basic fertilization, when necessary, as explained for gravity irrigation and about 15 days before sowing, watering abundantly afterwards.
- Irrigate again abundantly without fertilizer a few days before sowing.
- After germination, stop watering for a period of about 10 days.
- Thereafter, water three times a week for a month, applying the following amounts of fertilizer in each irrigation:
0.15 g / m2 of nitrogen (N).
0.10 g / m2 of phosphorus pentoxide (P2O5).
0.10 g / m2 of potassium oxide (K2O).
0.05 g / m2 of magnesium oxide (MgO), with low levels of this element in the soil.
During the following month, do three weekly irrigations, providing the following amounts of fertilizer in each irrigation:
0.20 g / m2 of nitrogen (N).
0.10 g / m2 of potassium oxide (K2O).
Then, until the end of the crop, irrigate every other day by adding nitrogen at the rate of about 0.25 g / m2.
6. How to plant peas in pots
We have arrived at the basic guide with which you will learn how to plant peas at home. These legumes accept cultivation both in the garden or in the ground, and in pots or urban gardens. To plant peas in an urban garden (growing table) or in a pot, follow these steps:
Soak the pea seeds for 24 hours. The ideal in pot is for peas with a low bush, with a smaller growth.
We prepare the substrate for the container, which we will make with the universal mixture of coconut fiber, earthworm humus and peat in equal parts, with the addition of vermiculite and perlite. An excellent base can be the Coco Fiber of Terra Acquatica by GHE.
Find a pot or grow table that is deep enough. It does not need a depth greater than about 15 cm, since this plant is not demanding in this sense. Make a hole or a groove of about 2 or 3 cm, with your fingers and add about 3 seeds per group, spaced about 20 cm from each other.
After sowing it is important to provide a good abundant irrigation, with nebulized water or fine jets so that the seeds are not dragged. Depending on the variety and temperatures, you may see your peas sprouting between 10 and 20 days later.
This method is also valid for sprouting peas in the seedbed and then planting the sprouted peas in their final location.
7. How to plant peas in the ground
When it comes to how to plant peas in the garden, you should follow this other guide, as many aspects are the same as when done in pots but others change or are added.
- We recommend letting the seeds soak for a day or night, just like when preparing them for a pot or seedbed.
- In the case of peas in soil, although it is a legume with a great ability to fix nitrogen in the soil, it is advisable to add fertilizer to it to optimize its development possibilities.
- It is always worth adding worm humus or compost to the soil and mixing it well, although you can also add it later when covering the seeds.
- Then prepare one or more grooves, where you want to plant the peas. It needs a depth of less than 5 cm and if there are more grooves it is advisable to distance them by about 40-50 cm from each other.
- Add about 3 or 4 seeds in a pile in the same place in the row and leave about 15-20 cm of separation between the groups.
- Depending on whether it is short or larger peas, it will be convenient to enlarge or reduce the space between them.
- Then cover the seeds with the soil enriched with fertilizer and, finally, water abundantly. It is important that the soil is loose and has good water drainage capacity, as peas require copious watering and should not end up soaked in water.
- When they have grown, it will be time to put the peas in trellis. This can be done in many ways, even if you have planted in a garden in long furrows, the most convenient and effective thing will be to place nailed poles together with the rows of peas and stretch a net of the many types that exist along these poles, then fixing them. with ropes, bridles or any other method.
- Once the net is in place, we can help the little plants by manually entangling them with it, very carefully.
- This can be done after winter if we plant them in the fall. In fact, in cold or windy weather, you can help protect the seedlings by placing a bottomless plastic bottle around each seedling during the cold months.
8. How to grow peas in hydroponics
To carry out its cultivation in hydroponics, direct sowing is recommended, as it is simple and prevents the plants from undergoing stress during transplantation. It should be noted that it is not necessary to make a large investment for its production because only the following materials are needed: seeds (the variety will depend on the region and the needs of the producer); hydroponic containers or pots 30 centimeters deep; clayey or sandy substrate such as a mixture of 40% perlite and 60% peat moss; a tongue depressor, a watering can with water and a nutrient solution for the vegetables.
- The first step is to identify a flat and clean surface to be able to work, once all the materials have been collected and the workplace located, the support must be moistened with a little water and distributed among the number of containers with the must be counted. pots are ready, it is important to drill a hole in the substrate for container to a depth of two centimeters, this will help the plants to develop optimally.
- Next, place one or two seeds per container and cover them with a little more substrate to stimulate germination. When the containers are prepared, they should be placed in a place that receives at least 10 hours of sunlight per day and that has a nearby water supply. From the first seven days the first seedlings will begin to sprout, during this period it is important to keep the substrate hydrated, therefore it is recommended to water once a day depending on the characteristics of the region.
- When the seedlings reach a height of between 10 and 15 centimeters, it is important to include the nutrient solution in the irrigation to prevent the plants from lacking in nutrients. Finally, harvesting can be done 85 days after planting, depending on the variety, pods containing ripe and tender fruit must be removed.
9. How long does a pea plant take to grow?
We conclude this pea planting guide by clarifying when peas are harvested so that you can enjoy your crop. If we have planted before winter, which is usually the best option, we can harvest the peas around May in stages, when the pods are already swollen and almost cylindrical in shape.
As a final tip, we suggest planting other vegetables that grow well next to this plant near the peas. Peas grow well near beans, corn, carrots, potatoes, cucumbers, turnips, radishes and turnips as they benefit each other and should be avoided near garlic and onions.
10. Variety of peas
In pea varieties, the following characteristics must be taken into account:
-Precocity: early, medium and late.
-Seed shape when ripe: smooth or wrinkled.
- Color of the seed when ripe: green, yellow or white.
-Size of the plant: short or dwarf when its height is less than 0.4 m; semi-climber between 0.8-1 m; climber or enrame when it is 1.5-2m.
-Use of production: pods and seeds (mangetout), or seeds for direct consumption, or for the canning and frozen industry.
For freezing, varieties with wrinkled grains are preferred, a little sweeter and interesting also for their large size and intense green color. However, for the canning industry, round, smooth, small and even green grains are preferred. The most common varieties are: Negret, Nano telephone, Television, Tirabeque, Volunteer.
- NEGRET: variety of English origin. Low height plant, it usually reaches 50-60 cm, the foliage is medium green, with 9-10 knots at the first flower. The pod is slightly curved, with a pointed end, dark green when green, as is the grain. The length of the pod is 8 cm, and narrow - about 13-14 mm. The number of eggs per pod is 7-9, with 1-2 pods per floor. The dry grain is semi-round in shape, with a smooth surface with very characteristic dimples, medium green color of the integuments and green cotyledons; the size of the grains is medium-large, the weight of 1000 grains is about 240-260 g. Adapted to greenery and industry.
- VOLUNTEER: variety of French origin. It is included in the former, but is somewhat less precocious than Negret.
Among the dwarfs it is rather tall (80-90 cm), with medium green foliage, with 11-12 nodes up to the first flower, the leaflets and the stipules are of medium size.
The pod is slightly curved with a sharp point, dark green when green, as are the grains, of long length, generally reaching 9-10 cm, medium width, 15-16 mm, generally with 7-9 grains per pod and 1 - 2 capsules per floor.
The dry pit is oval in shape with a smooth rippled surface, medium green semi-transparent coat, green cotyledons, and very thick in size, about 315 g or more than 1000 stones in weight. Your application is for verdeo.
- NANO PHONE: of North American origin. The cycle is a semi-late plant, seedless (80-90 cm), light green foliage, 14-15 knots at the first flower, large and moderately spotted stipules.
The pods are generally straight or slightly curved at the apex, also sharp, of medium green color when green, as well as the fresh grain, the length of the pod is 10-11 cm and the width of 16-18 mm. , with 7-9 grains and generally one per floor.
The shape of the grain in the dry state is oval, with a rough surface, greenish cream integument, green cotyledons, of large size, about 300 g and the weight of 1000 grains.
It is a variety of greening application.
- TELEVISION: variety of French origin. The cycle is semi-late, almost late; seminane plant (75 cm), bluish-green foliage and 14-16 nodes at the first flower.
The shape of the pods is slightly curved and with a pointed end, dark green in color, as well as the bean in its green state, is quite long (11.5 cm), with 6-8 kernels per pod.
In the dry state, the grain is irregularly oblong in shape and has a rough surface; about 280 g the weight of the 1000 grains.
It is a variety suitable for freezing.
- TIRABEQUE: of Spanish origin. It reaches great growth (170-190 cm), light green foliage, medium late cycle, with 15-16 nodes on the first flower, carries 1-2 flowers per floor.
The pod is very curved, flattened, which marks the seeds, light green when green, and also the fresh seeds, long (14-15 cm) and very wide (30 mm), with 6-9 grains and 1-2 pods per plan .
The dried grain is oval in shape, smooth surface with dimples, dark cream colored integument with purple points. The cotyledons are yellow and the grain size is coarse, about 280 g per 1000 grains.
Your question is for greening; in this typology the wafer is also consumed.
11. Diseases and parasites
The pea or pea is a herbaceous and climbing plant widespread all over the world, very appreciated for its pods inside which we find its precious seeds that have been planted in the orchards of the Near East for 10,000 years.
Parasites
Whitefly: The whitefly is found in the underside of the leaves and it is best to start fighting it when the first specimens appear because over the years they have become resistant to any product and it is impossible to fight them if there is already a large amount of them.
Sitona of legumes: is a small weevil that feeds on the leaves, causing a smaller surface for photosynthesis to reduce plant growth. The leaves are often seen with notches along the edges. Here we show you what to do if you have them in the crop.
Pea weevil: They can attack peas in the garden or those we have already stored. The best remedy is to freeze the seeds for 1 day as this does not affect the germination capacity of the plant and we would eliminate any weevil eggs that may be present.
Red spider: When feeding on the plant, the red spider injects its mouthparts causing the death of these cells and reducing the surface of the plant's photosynthesis. They also have a tendency to live as a family because they are gregarious and make a kind of cobweb through which to move more easily. Find out in this article what you should do.
Thrips: they disfigure the pods with their bites and in the seedlings they make the plant die. It is difficult to fight, so it is necessary to place the chromatic blue plates. They are made with the same method of the whitefly and if you want to know other ecological alternatives to fight it, consult this link.
Minador: It can cause wilting or premature leaf drop and consequently a slowdown in the growth of the plant if it is young. It is difficult to cure but here we leave you an article with some remedies.
Green Aphid: Green aphid causes all the effects described above as it is also a pest that reproduces easily during cloning. Fortunately, fighting is easy, here we show you how.
Pea Moth: It is a dark colored moth that lays its eggs in the flower of the peas, its caterpillars feed on the pea inside the pod. The treatment must be applied when the pods begin to produce to prevent the caterpillar from settling inside, it is difficult and we do not guarantee 100% because its treatment does not affect it inside the pod. Here we show you what to apply.
For these types of insects we recommend Agrobacterias Spider Killer and Soft Soap.
Illnesses
Anthracnose: Fungus that attacks stems and pods, looks like round yellow spots with dark edges. Like all mushrooms, it appears with moisture and we must avoid water stagnation. It can cause the plant to die. Apply a fungicide treatment even if it is not as effective and it is better to prevent. Crop rotation, weed removal and good soil drainage.
Rust: When the characteristic symptoms appear that we need to treat to prevent it from spreading, see here to learn more about rust. An excellent product is Rock Dust - Kaolin.
Powdery mildew: White spots on the top of the leaves, it is easy to spot and you should avoid getting the leaves wet when watering. We can use a fungicide designed for this purpose such as Agrobacterias Killer Oidium.
Stem rot: Brown spots along the stem, causing weakening and possibly splitting the plant. We need to apply a fungicide treatment such as Agrobacterias Amanitha Muskaria
12. How to store peas
Peas or peas (as they are also called) are a vegetable consumed by many Mexicans and, among their properties, we have that they contain calcium, iron, copper, zinc and manganese, which together with cereals and tubers can replace meat. If you don't know how to keep peas fresh and prevent them from moldy, read on.
Today we offer you some tricks to preserve peas and keep them fresh longer.
- Learn to choose the freshest peas from the greengrocer; look for only those smooth cylindrical pods, of an intense green; as well as avoiding those that already have small brown spots.
- Make sure they are green when you touch them and that they have a firm texture and that their grain is not about to sprout or rot; You should also avoid the yellow ones, as they indicate they are old.
- One way to store peas is to peel them, which is to remove them from the pod and place them in plastic freezer bags.
- Or you can refrigerate them with the whole pod and place them in a laundry bag on a paper towel (in the crisper).
- The place where you store them will help you to keep them in better condition, since both in the drawer and in the front of the refrigerator is the most recommended place; never in the back because they can burn. This way, peas can last 10 to 12 days and frozen for a month or more.
If you want to read other similar articles to build your own urban, we recommend you visit our Blog on Hydroponics.eu!